For the last part of our Spring Tour of Scotland, we have booked to stay in an apartment that overlooks West Bow.
As we arrive, everywhere is bustling. It is a complete culture shock after staying in an isolated cottage in the mountains. The second thing that strikes me after the noise of the crowds and traffic is the sudden explosion of different smells – I have been used to the undiluted, crisp freshness of the wilderness. Having grown up in the Midlands I can immediately sense the oncoming rain in the air. Also, very strongly, there is that vinegary odour of Fish and Chips. Sugar from the patisserie we have parked up next to. The scent of leather wafts from the kilt makers. Petrol fumes from the cars that pass by. Roasted coffee and …. whisky. I am soon to learn that in the old part of the city, you are never more than a few doors away from either whisky or cashmere.
A few tourists pause to take a photo of our electric car. I wonder if they will spot all the children waving at them from the back seats when they review the photo later.
This was our view as we pulled up in our car to unload our belongings.
The apartment is found through a metal lattice gateway, and up several stone staircases. After all of the luggage is dropped off, we take our car to a secure underground carpark and make our way back through Edinburgh. In new situations, it is always best for us to stay together; our younger sons can get very unsettled and distraught if one person is missing.
It starts to rain as we emerge back onto street level with our rucksacks and children, who are blinking at the cars rushing past.
Straight away we have to make a quick change of plan when our direct route back is blocked off by a large group of protestors, who are shouting loudly at police and blowing whistles. Our two autistic sons have never been to a capital city before and have just had a very long car journey from the north west coast. Their instinct at such a scary time is to drop to the ground with their hands over their ears. Our seven month old daughter is shaking in her carrier. We hold hands (and reigns) in a long line and hurry everyone past as fast as we can, telling them that everything will be okay. At a safe place to pause, my husband loads google maps up on his phone and quickly finds an alternative route for us; we will use Waverley Train Station as our bridge to the other side of the city. We find an unassuming lift at street level and it takes us downwards.
Our youngest sons absolutely love trains. They have never been to a big train station before and their faces immediately light up. We take them up onto a gantry and let them watch as trains come and go from Platform 12. Without the diversion, initially such a danger, we would not be here and would not have shared this moment.
When we resurface, the rain has also stopped. The rest of the journey is comparatively easy.
The sun is shining again as I look out of our apartment window. Our train station encounter now feels very fitting for West Bow has wholeheartedly embraced Harry Potter (the famous cafe where Rowling wrote her first novel is at the end of the street) and refashioned itself as a real life Diagon Alley.
Our holiday apartment is beautiful, many centuries old and we have managed to book it at a last minute price due to a cancellation. A surprise letter in the drawing room asks that guests only engage in “light activities” due to the medieval wooden floor being at risk of collapse. It specifies “no dancing.” My husband and I look at each other and then glance at our five children. We decide that maybe our lively younger sons should concentrate on playing in the more robust stone vaults.*
The bedrooms are set up with iron bedsteads and tartan blankets. It reminds me of our trip to The Parsonage at Haworth.
My fourth son is confused that a bed should also have a climbing frame attached. His eyes are darting all over it and I know that he is fascinated. He loves to climb and we will need to watch him for every second that he is awake. Luckily, we plan to spend most of our time here outside, exploring the city.
Our third son finds a daybed in the nook between the master bedroom and bathroom and promptly falls fast asleep until morning.
One wonderful discovery is that we can leave the apartment by two entrances. The first leads out onto West Bow at ground level. However, if we go up a further stone staircase, we can exit through a very grand iron gate with portcullis spikes and out onto Victoria Terrace. Due east is filled with the sound of clicking cutlery, glasses and light chatter, as people enjoy the outdoor dining areas that overlook “Diagon Alley.” If we turn north from here, an alleyway leads us towards Edinburgh Castle.
Tonight, it is time to rest from a long day of travel and our journey through the crowds. Tomorrow, we plan to spend the day exploring the city on foot.
*Towards the end of the trip, since we had kept the drawing room a quiet place, our baby daughter enjoyed exploring there and learnt to crawl for the first time across the well-worn medieval floorboards.
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I hope you and your family have a lovely trip. My daughter is actually headed over the pond in two days.
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I’m a little late replying – I hope she is having a lovely time xx I know travel is tricky for the time being so also hope she got to see Scotland before everything got complicated with international flights x
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You’re right on time! There was a bit of a scare with Trump’s announcement but she’s literally touring London now. It’s their last stop.
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Wonderful! I am so glad she got her trip 🙂 I hope all is well where you are too ♥️
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Such beautiful accommodation and I’m delighted that you chose to share photos of it. In the 1970s, my 2 friends and I stayed in youth hostels (including the oldest one in the U.K.). I have a photo of its original kitchen, which, except for the bright blue painted walls looks a bit like something medieval.
Your street scenes show wonderful photography skills. I am thoroughly enjoying your ‘Scottish holiday.’ Especially your insights into your Autistic sons view of the world around them. Reminds me of so much of what I see around me when outdoors. I think your sons are very lucky to have such thoughtful, loving parents.
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That is such a kind message, thank you very much from all of us x It must have been amazing to tour around as a young person – when we travel it is like a military operation! 😀
My next posts are on taking the children around Edinburgh. My third son at the National art gallery was one of my happiest memories, he was so in awe of the giant paintings it attracted an audience 🙂
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What a fabulous apartment. There is also something very Harry Potterish about that iron gate – quite magical.
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It came with a very ancient looking key to match! 🙂
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Enjoy your trip in beautiful Edinburgh! 🙂
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Thank you! I write completely out of synch so this is last year 🙂 We had a wonderful trip, I’ve really fallen for the city of Edinburgh and hope to go back x
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That part of edinburgh is a joy isn’t it? We go to the Fringe pretty much every year and love that Edinburgh vibe. Your flat looks a joy for kids to explore
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It is! It was our first time there but I can see why you go year after year. It reminded me of York mixed with Chester on a very vast scale 🙂
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Indeed with a smattering of Bristol’s and Shaftesbury’s bloody hills thrown in…
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What a marvellous place to stay. Your writing is as enjoyable as ever. The olfactory paragraph reminds me that we should include all senses.
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Thank you so much Derrick … I think being super sensitive to scents is the payoff for my hay fever 😀
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That was quite the apartment! This Mainer has never seen anything that remotely resembles it. All right. It gets a Maine “wowsah!” And I don’t give them lightly. 😉
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It was a culture shock to us too Laurie …. we usually stay in the middle of nowhere or go camping 🙂 We wanted the children to experience being in the centre of a giant capital city! Edinburgh has such an old feel to it, with lots of quiet passageways and nooks – it’s a really nice place to start 🙂
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Fascinating city!
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I’m glad you’re enjoying Edinburgh. It is always interesting to see my home town through the eyes of visitors. Your boys will love the museum if you have time to go there
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We did make it to the national art gallery, which made quite the impression on our autistic son … his awe at one painting attracted a crowd 🙂
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That’s great 🙂
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What a fantastic place to stay, and an amazing view of the street below. I also wanted to say that I really enjoy reading about how you adapt to meet your children’s needs and ensure they all feel safe and included. X
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Thank you very much for the lovely supportive comment – I hope all is well with you x I’ve been working a lot this week but look forward to catching up on all your lovely news x
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Wow, the apartment looks awesome (even if no dancing is allowed).
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It was a lot of fun! We have never stayed anywhere like it before, it was a treat for all of us 🙂
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Awesome apartment and beautiful pictures. Thanks for sharing.
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Thank you very much Jun x I keep meaning to post up the next bit of our Scotland tour and when I am looking through photos of the crowded streets of Edinburgh this time last year, it seems like another world, compared to now.
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Great pictures. My daughter went to uni in Glasgow, Scotland for a year. She loved her time there.
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